If these articles, essays and posts I'm reading were wine, none would rate 90 or more points, I'm sorry to say. Because I believe wine writing needs fresh perspective and voices, I look forward each year to judging the works submitted by applicants for fellowships to the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers, to convene in February at the Napa Valley resort Meadowood.
Each candidate anonymously submits two pieces, which then are reviewed indpendently by three judges. Some of the writing is raw manuscript, some published or posted work. Midway through this year's review, I'm puzzled by a slip in overall quality compared with batchs from earlier years. On my 100-point scale, none has scored higher than 85, and most are in the 70s and 60s.
Too many pieces lack focus and a theme; the reader doesn't know where he is going at the outset and feels lost when he gets to the end. Broad conclusions aren't substantiated with facts. A lot of material sounds familiar, as if lifted from winery press release or website. Personality and color too often are missing. Too many are humorless. Quotes are rare. Mostly, many of the pieces are painfully self-absorbed, as if the writer already has seen it all, experienced it all, knows it all, and doesn't have to learn from anyone who ever walked through the vineyard before he or she got there.
But I'm keeping two things in mind. One, that I'm just midway through the papers and that the second half may show dramatic improvement. And barring that, I'm remembering something that the director of the symposium, Jim Gordon, urged on the judges at the start: "We want to find the writers with the most talent or potential, and help them take their work to a higher level by learning more at the symposium." So I'm looking for potential more than polish, and in that regard have been encouraged by some original ideas, some nicely turned phrases and even the occasional flash of humor.
I just wish more of the candidates would be more grounded in the subject. They don't need to hold a degree in viticulture or enology from UC Davis, but I sense that much of their writing would be more informative and entertaining if they'd been better briefed in the history and traditions of the trade. A small library of wine reference books would be a good place to start. Here's 10 that over the years I've found myself turning to most often as I prepare to interview grower or vintner, or to double-check something a grower or vintner has said (keep in mind that most of my wine writing is on California):
"The New Frank Schoonmaker Encyclopedia of Wine" by Alexis Bespaloff (William Morrow and Company): Regardless of topic, this is the starting point, providing an introduction reliable, concise and smart to all sorts of wine topics, from grape variety to wine region.
"The Oxford Companion to Wine" by Jancis Robinson (Oxford): If the Schoonmaker doesn't provide me with all I need, the more cerebral and deeper Oxford will.
"A Companion to California Wine" by Charles L. Sullivan (University of California Press): No one provides a more detailed and knowledgeable view of the California wine trade from its distant past right up to today than Charles Sullivan.
"Wine Grape Varieties in California" by several contributors, many of them with UC Davis (University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources): In large part a field manual to help growers and vintners decide what they should plant where, this book nevertheless provides the layman with a quick study about the history, appearance, disease problems, winery use and several other aspects for all the major and many of the minor grape varieties cultivated in California.
"The Wine Bible" by Karen MacNeil (Workman): Like a nicely balanced zinfandel, "The Wine Bible" is big, thick and heavy, but also congenial and fresh. MacNeil addresses virtually any wine subject you can think of with wit and smarts.
"Making Sense of California Wine" by Matt Kramer (William Morrow and Company): Kramer long ago got sold on the crucial link between place and wine, and for nearly 400 pages he shows how that association works in California, breaking down the state into its various wine regions and surveying many of its wineries.
"Vines, Grapes and Wines" by Jancis Robinson (Mitchell Beazley): Not an easy book to find - my weathered copy had to be shipped from South Africa - but it's Jancis Robinson at her most authoritative, breezing through the world's principal wine regions, defining the significance of their grape varieties in exquisite detail.
"Wine" by Maynard A. Amerine and Vernon L. Singleton (University of California Press): First published in 1965, this may be the first wine book I ever read, and I've kept it all these years because it is so level-headed and basic. Even after all this time, it still provides a relevant grounding to understanding the craft of making wine.
One final note: Though most of these books are relatively old, most should be fairly easy to find. However, if you are looking for a new book to give an aspiring wine writer this holiday season - or any wine enthusiast, for that matter - 2010 is the vintage of the century for wine publishing; a remarkable number of original, entertaining and provocative books are available:
"Reading Between the Wines" by Terry Theise (University of California Press): Theise, a wine importer specializing in small estates and unheralded varietals like gruner veltliner, long has been recognized for his brisk and blunt assessments of the wine trade as well as wines. Here, he finally offers his entertaining views in something other than one of his catalogs.
"Matt Kramer on Wine: A Matchless Collection of Columns, Essays, and Observations by America's Most Original and Lucid Wine Writer" (Sterling Epicure): All that, and modest, too? Maybe not. But why should he be, as certainly Kramer is the country's most opinionated wine writer, provoking readers into looking at wine and the wine culture with a fresh perspective every time his column appears in The Wine Spectator, and doing it without awarding points.
"The New Connoiseurs' Guidebook to California Wine and Wineries" by Charles E. Olken and Joseph Furstenthal (University of California Press): You probably can get an app for everything that's in this book, but then your screen would be cluttered with a whole bunch of apps. Why not get all that they offer in one handy manual? And by "all that" we're talking maps, acreage, winemaking styles, critical reviews and more on nearly 500 California wineries and 130 growing areas.
Now, if we can just get those aspiring writers to read a bit more before sitting down to their keyboard.
Vinography Unboxed: Week of May 17th, 2015
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